For the past week Caitlin and I have been employed in the Repairs and Maintenance department at Sanctuary Olonana. At first we didn't quite know what to expect but it was immediately obvious from the very first day that this would be the most enjoyable work area for both of us. To keep a Luxury Retreat fully functional 24/7 is no easy feat; there were cars to repair, tents to refurbish, wooden signs to carve, electric fences to recircuit, trucks to drive, supplies to deliver etc...etc. Needless to say there was plenty of work for Caitlin and I to be getting on with. Between the two of us we were mechanics, carpenters, truck drivers, garbage cleaners, pool cleaners, painters, builders, and gardeners. Some particular highlights for the both of us include driving an off-road truck from WWII to collect water from a natural spring in the Mara; repairing and re-greasing the wheel hub of one of the 4X4s; chiseling signs on wooden boards with devout Rasta men from Nairobi; and being in the company of the many other people who work in the department since R&M employs the most people at Olonana.
For me I managed to discover many other snooker enthusiasts and so after the day's work is over we would head off towards the dilapidated pool table in the staff quarters and play to our hearts content (many were claiming to be the 'pool champion' - a title that was quickly proven false. Furthermore both Caitlin and I were also re-located to stay in the staff quarters because the Sanctuary was fully-booked which was mainly because the Board of Directors had arrived for 3-4 days of conference talks. In fact to help accomodate for the extra numbers incredibily luxurious mobile camps were pitched in the open grass field that's within the Olonana boundary... I think I would have preferred to sleep there under the stars! Next week it we will be waiters but we have both agreed that during our free time we will definitely help out with the R&M department since it was so enjoyable.
Xaver
Monday, May 23, 2011
Friday, May 20, 2011
The Silence of the Goat
There was once a black and white spotted goat that belonged to the neighboring Masai tribe. This goat is no more. It all began yesterday when it was brought to the staff quarters, perfectly ignorant of its imminent destiny. Yet once it was tethered to the tree, the reason for his presence seemed to have dawned upon him and thus tried to make a daring escape. Having broke free of the rope that bound him to his fate he scarpered up through the bushes (much to everyone's annoyance) and almost made good his escape. The hunt was on and for the next 15 minutes both Caitlin and I, along with a few others, were in hot pursuit. I virtually fought my way through all the thorny Acacias to no avail and steadily became more and more frustrated with this aggravating goat. Eventually though the poor goat's valiant attempt at freedom was thwarted and it was returned to its original tethering post. The weather at that point seemed to perfectly reflect the goat's emotions and for 4 hours straight the heavens let loose a cascade of water which saved the goats life for the day... the staff had to make do with a vegetarian dinner.
The following day all thoughts about the goat were put aside as Caitlin and I continued to work in the maintenance department. Having finished my lunch I proceeded to return to my room only to be confronted with an invitation to help 'prepare' the goat for the staff's evening meal. I realised at once that this would certainly be one of the most memorable experiences of my time out here if I accepted the offer. The slaughtering of a goat is one of the most crucial aspects of Masai culture since 2/3rds of their principle diet (meat, blood and milk) stems from this act and so to participate in it would be a once-in-a-lifetime cultural experience. I, therefore, agreed to help but at the same time not trusting my body to quell any uncontrollable reflexes that might arise. I refrained from playing the role of executioner (I was afraid that I might make a mistake and therefore cause the goat to be in a lot of pain). I braced my ears for a horrifying bleat of despair to come from the goat, but it never did. Instead it died painlessly and peacefully (although the natural postmortem convulsions did take a while to stop). We then lifted the goat so that the blood could drain out into the water bottles that lay waiting underneath. Unfortunately during the process the entire contents of the goat's stomach cascaded down the open oesophagus and onto my shoe; not pleasant. Once the blood had been collected it was time to skin the animal. What caught me by surprise was how supple the skin was and how easy it was to remove it. After 15 minutes the skin was gone and it was time to remove the innards which were still warm... not really a very pleasant job either. Once the innards were gone we removed the head, amputated the legs and removed the rib cage. Barely 40 minutes after the goat was alive well, it's entire anatomy was reduced to a soft and fleshy pile in a large cooking pot. I certainly wouldn't call it an enjoyable experience, by no means. But at the same time it made me appreciate, even more, the strength and beauty of the Masai culture. Their entire livelihood, both monetary and dietary, depends on their livestock. Without it they would cease to exist. And for those that feel that the white and black spotted goat had a gruesome fate, I can promise you that the Masai people looked after it like it was their child. It probably had a vastly happier life than those that are bred in the many battery farms back in England.
Xaver
The following day all thoughts about the goat were put aside as Caitlin and I continued to work in the maintenance department. Having finished my lunch I proceeded to return to my room only to be confronted with an invitation to help 'prepare' the goat for the staff's evening meal. I realised at once that this would certainly be one of the most memorable experiences of my time out here if I accepted the offer. The slaughtering of a goat is one of the most crucial aspects of Masai culture since 2/3rds of their principle diet (meat, blood and milk) stems from this act and so to participate in it would be a once-in-a-lifetime cultural experience. I, therefore, agreed to help but at the same time not trusting my body to quell any uncontrollable reflexes that might arise. I refrained from playing the role of executioner (I was afraid that I might make a mistake and therefore cause the goat to be in a lot of pain). I braced my ears for a horrifying bleat of despair to come from the goat, but it never did. Instead it died painlessly and peacefully (although the natural postmortem convulsions did take a while to stop). We then lifted the goat so that the blood could drain out into the water bottles that lay waiting underneath. Unfortunately during the process the entire contents of the goat's stomach cascaded down the open oesophagus and onto my shoe; not pleasant. Once the blood had been collected it was time to skin the animal. What caught me by surprise was how supple the skin was and how easy it was to remove it. After 15 minutes the skin was gone and it was time to remove the innards which were still warm... not really a very pleasant job either. Once the innards were gone we removed the head, amputated the legs and removed the rib cage. Barely 40 minutes after the goat was alive well, it's entire anatomy was reduced to a soft and fleshy pile in a large cooking pot. I certainly wouldn't call it an enjoyable experience, by no means. But at the same time it made me appreciate, even more, the strength and beauty of the Masai culture. Their entire livelihood, both monetary and dietary, depends on their livestock. Without it they would cease to exist. And for those that feel that the white and black spotted goat had a gruesome fate, I can promise you that the Masai people looked after it like it was their child. It probably had a vastly happier life than those that are bred in the many battery farms back in England.
Xaver
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Mararianda
Due to the recent rains that appear daily at about 5, our usual climb up the escarpment was deemed a little too dangerous. However our walking partner, Alfred had an slightly longer alternate... The hour walk to the nearest shopping centre, Mararianda. The walk in comparision to the one up the escarpment was very flat and easy and it wasn't long until we arrived at the town. Mararianda is a small but busy town composed of many shanty shops, where many of the Olonana workers go to socialise. We were welcomed warmly by the locals, some of whom recognised us from our visits to their camps in our first few weeks. Xaver bought a sim card whilst I headed hastily to the candy shop, after weeks of being deprived of sweets I had a craving. On the way back we were accompanied by some of the Masaai elders from our neighbouring villages who were keen to find out more about us. We chatted for the majority of the journey back whilst cleaning our teeth with the "local toothbrushes" which is a well chewed piece of wood! Much to our surprise although they didnt taste great, they definately did the job leaving our teeth feeilng freshly brushed. The conversation turned towards my welfare as the Masaai worried that I would unable to cope with the journey being a girl - a common mistake. I assured them that I was feeling fine infact very energetic... To which I was challenged by a spritely women well into her 70's! We raced in short spurts along the road for a good 500m before the elderly women gave up soon after dropping her gin and accepted defeat. Xaver and I have learnt from this women that Gin is obviously the solution to a long and healthy life!
Caitlin
Caitlin
driving lessons
After going on many game drives and being witness to the jeeps getting stuck in the mud banks of the river or the boggy offroad tracks Xaver and I were desperate to get behind the wheel. Even though we both have driving licences at home in England we were doubtful that the guides would let us drive such a power vehicle however one day after lunch Abdul said he would take us for a lesson. We headed to the landing strip to drop of some guests and once the plane was up in the air it was my turn to get behind the wheel; Xaver claiming to be a gentleman with "Ladies first". Abdul then navigated me along the tracks and all was going well - Xaver even felt safe enough to dangle out the side of the car filming our escapades. This was until Abdul put my skills to the test and led me to an extremely muddy area where soon enough I got stuck much to Xaver's enjoyment. It took a good 10 minutes of moving backwards and forwards repeatedly and a lot of revving to free the jeep. It was then Xaver's turn to drive, Abdul quickly felt the difference, where as I had approached mounds and ruts with caution Xaver went for the fast and furious approach rocking the jeep heavily from side to side. Thanks to this speed we quickly arrived back at camp to find all the soft drinks had lost their fizz!
Caitlin
Caitlin
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
A Bush Breakfast
On Monday we were given a unique opportunity to go on a game drive, but with a twist; A full buffet breakfast half way up the escarpment as the sun rises. At first my assumption was that the breakfast would be a contained in a picnic hamper and that we would stuff our faces with croissants quickly, but no. As we scaled the hill the feast that was laid out before us became clearer and clearer. There were clothed tables situated perfectly over the Masai plains and two buffet table crammed full with both hot and cold options. Our friend Emmanuel from the kitchens was even there with a makeshift cooker immediately on-hand to fry us up any type of eggs you could imagine. And so with a plate piled high with bacon, sausage, french bread, potatoes, and eggs I sat down at my table and admired the view that lay before me. After everyone had been well and truly satisfied we then proceeded to go on our game drive which turned out to be highly successful as we saw a male lion tucking into his own freshly caught breakfast while making some gruesome sounds. At 12:00 we were back at Sanctuary Olonana and I had a pile of ironing to do...
Xav
Xav
It's time for action
After almost 2 weeks of gluttonous eating on my behalf it was time to do something to prevent an expanding waistline. Having quickly given up attempts to do sit-ups and push-ups regularly every day I decided that there must be something more entertaining to do to keep fit. That's when my eyes alighted upon the huge escarpment that looms over Sanctuary Olonana and I thought 'why not?' It actually turns out that there are actually a couple of fitness enthusiast on the working staff that also had the same idea for the past 6 months. So I decided to join them as much as possible on their daily walk. The first time was a mixture of exhilaration at the view seen at the top of the escarpment and exhaustion when I returned. Since then I've scaled it 5 times and each time it gets easier and no less thrilling so it is definitely something that I will try to maintain during my stay here.
The fitness idea also appealed to Caitlin who, I assume, felt the same sense of guilt at not being active enough. Needless to say she ascended the escarpment without any difficulty at all, much to the surprise of all the male employees who collectively thought that the feat would not be possible for a lady; one even asked if Albert and I had to use a rope to drag her up (cue a lot of laughter from me and an incredulous look from Caitlin). I, myself, had no doubts about her capabilities. The views of the Masai plains from the top certainly make this walk more than worthwhile, and it will definitely be an aspect that I'll miss when I have to leave.
Xav
The fitness idea also appealed to Caitlin who, I assume, felt the same sense of guilt at not being active enough. Needless to say she ascended the escarpment without any difficulty at all, much to the surprise of all the male employees who collectively thought that the feat would not be possible for a lady; one even asked if Albert and I had to use a rope to drag her up (cue a lot of laughter from me and an incredulous look from Caitlin). I, myself, had no doubts about her capabilities. The views of the Masai plains from the top certainly make this walk more than worthwhile, and it will definitely be an aspect that I'll miss when I have to leave.
Xav
Work Week 3
1-3/05/2011
Last Friday was sadly our last day working in the Olonana Kitchen. We topped the day off by spending perhaps an hour taking photos of everyone. This initially began as a well-behaved affair with each person smiling amiably at the camera but it very rapidly went out of control (much to our amusement); knives were drawn, props were used and poses got steadily more ridiculous! But in many ways these photos probably speak more truth about the characters in the kitchen; they are a great bunch. But 'hakuna matata', we're still here for 2 more months so we'll see plenty of them despite their lamentations that they would never see us again!
Caitlin and I have also been seperated for this week in terms of our work departments with me trying my hand at laundry (a job I was quite dubious about) and Caitlin showing off her natural skills in house-keeping. Already on my first day I was confronted by innumerable pairs of women's underwear that I was told I had to iron, needless to say it wasn't the most positive aspect of the day for me... However I did have the opportunity to meet new co-workers and just like the kitchen staff they were very friendly. After the first day I was invited to come and kick a football about with other people from the neighbouring Masai village. I tried as best I could to display some credible skills but sadly my injured ankle posed a significant hindrance (I regularly fell and mis-hit the ball to the other team, much to my embarassment) and I relegated myself to acting as goalkeeper which turned out to be a useless position since the football they were playing became a contest to see who could keep hold of the ball the longest without giving-up possesion - goals didn't count. The pitch couldn't really be regarded as a pitch - more like the only area of grass that isn't populated by loose rocks... their cattle also had a free rein of the 'pitch' and there were frequent hillarious occasions where a cross or pass was gloriously intercepted by a cow's head. It was a certainly a novel experience... where else would you play football with a commanding view of the Masai plains with the inclusion of random streaking cows. We even had spectators! The children of the village came out in their multitudes and avidly watched the 'grown-ups' play some footie. Many of them wanted to test their English on me and I happily obliged. Hopefully my ankle will improve enough to join in properly but nonetheless I had a great time and I certainly take up any future invitations to play.
Last Friday was sadly our last day working in the Olonana Kitchen. We topped the day off by spending perhaps an hour taking photos of everyone. This initially began as a well-behaved affair with each person smiling amiably at the camera but it very rapidly went out of control (much to our amusement); knives were drawn, props were used and poses got steadily more ridiculous! But in many ways these photos probably speak more truth about the characters in the kitchen; they are a great bunch. But 'hakuna matata', we're still here for 2 more months so we'll see plenty of them despite their lamentations that they would never see us again!
Caitlin and I have also been seperated for this week in terms of our work departments with me trying my hand at laundry (a job I was quite dubious about) and Caitlin showing off her natural skills in house-keeping. Already on my first day I was confronted by innumerable pairs of women's underwear that I was told I had to iron, needless to say it wasn't the most positive aspect of the day for me... However I did have the opportunity to meet new co-workers and just like the kitchen staff they were very friendly. After the first day I was invited to come and kick a football about with other people from the neighbouring Masai village. I tried as best I could to display some credible skills but sadly my injured ankle posed a significant hindrance (I regularly fell and mis-hit the ball to the other team, much to my embarassment) and I relegated myself to acting as goalkeeper which turned out to be a useless position since the football they were playing became a contest to see who could keep hold of the ball the longest without giving-up possesion - goals didn't count. The pitch couldn't really be regarded as a pitch - more like the only area of grass that isn't populated by loose rocks... their cattle also had a free rein of the 'pitch' and there were frequent hillarious occasions where a cross or pass was gloriously intercepted by a cow's head. It was a certainly a novel experience... where else would you play football with a commanding view of the Masai plains with the inclusion of random streaking cows. We even had spectators! The children of the village came out in their multitudes and avidly watched the 'grown-ups' play some footie. Many of them wanted to test their English on me and I happily obliged. Hopefully my ankle will improve enough to join in properly but nonetheless I had a great time and I certainly take up any future invitations to play.
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